Lake Toba (Danau Toba), on the island of Sumatra in Indonesia, is the largest volcanic lake in the world. Samosir island, in the lake, is an island within an island. It is in North Sumatra (Sumatera Utara).

Regions

Northern side (Merek, Tongging, Silalahi) The nearest point from Medan.

Eastern side (Parapat, Simarjarunjung, Tigaras) The most popular gateway to Lake Toba and Samosir island.

Southern side (Balige, Muara, Bakkara, Sipinsur) Increasingly become popular places to visit. The Silangit airport is located at here.

Western side (Tele, Pusuk Buhit, Pangururan) The only land bridge connecting mainland and Samosir island and the mountain of Pusuk Buhit are at here.

Samosir island (Tuktuk Siadong) The big island in the middle of the lake.

Understand

Lake Toba

Lake Toba is an immense volcanic lake covering an area of 1,707 km² (1,000 km² bigger than Singapore) with an island in the center. Formed by a gigantic volcanic eruption some 70,000 years ago, it is probably the largest resurgent caldera on Earth. Some studies say it might have been associated with causing previous ice age/climate change and the largest human population bottleneck ever. Genetic estimates suggest that there were only a few thousand individuals that survived the catastrophe. The island in the middle - Pulau Samosir - was joined to the caldera wall by a narrow isthmus, which was cut through to enable boats to pass; a road bridge crosses the cutting. Samosir island is the cultural centre of Batak tribe who are mostly Christians nowadays.

Lake Toba was perhaps once more popular than it is nowadays, but for many it remains a firm fixture on the Banana Pancake Trail. It is a great laid back place to chill out for a few days after jungle trekking etc. The location is very popular with Chinese tourists around Chinese New Year, when availability drops dramatically and accommodation costs skyrocket. In its effort to promote tourism, government has greatly improved the infrastructure.

The water quality in Lake Toba is not the same everywhere, so seek local advice before swimming. Some areas of the lake are not recommended for swimming, due to pollution caused by intensive fish-farming.

Tourist information

• Lake Toba tourism information

Talk

The local people who live in the Toba region are called Toba Batak, or simply Batak, and they speak the local Batak language, but everyone also speaks Indonesian. You may want to use the Batak greeting, 'horas', which means welcome, good morning, farewell, etc.

Get in

By plane

• 1 Silangit International Airport (Bandar Udara Internasional Sisingamangaraja XII DTB  ^IATA) (at Siborong-Borong in the southern side). The airport serves domestic & international flights with Batik Air from Jakarta, Citilink from Jakarta (via Halim Perdanakusuma Airport), Garuda Indonesia from Medan, Jakarta and Singapore, Wings Air from Medan and Jakarta, and Sriwijaya Air from Jakarta.  

You can also fly to Medan's Kualanamu International Airport and continue to Lake Toba by land.

By car

There are 2 routes to reach Lake Toba from Medan:

• Kabanjahe route
• Pematang Siantar route

The Kabanjahe route is the shortest, it passes through Berastagi town and Kabanjahe city till it reaches Merek town at the northern side (about 2.5 hours' drive from Medan). Once you reach Merek, there are 4 options:

1. head down to Tongging and explore the lakeside up to Silalahi (30 - 45 minutes' drive)
2. head to Parapat in the eastern side (2 - 2.5 hours' drive)
3. head to Sidikalang route to explore the western side and cross to Samosir island via the only land bridge (3 - 4 hours' drive)
4. continue from option 3 to the southern side (another 2 hours' drive)

This route is recommended to those who wish to explore Berastagi, Kabanjahe and Lake Toba in one go.

The Pematang Siantar route is the most popular if you choose to visit Parapat, Tuktuk or Balige at the southern side. It takes about 3 - 4 hours from Medan via toll road to Parapat and another 2 hours to reach Balige. If you are flying to Kualanamu Airport, most likely you will use this route.

By bus

View of Parapat from Lake Toba

• from Amplas Station in Medan: Rp 39,000 with local bus, 5 hr (every hour); or Rp 65,000 (offers start at 80,000) with tourist minibus, 4 hr (April 2016)
• from Berastagi:
  • From Kabanjahe bus terminal to Siantar (black minibus written sepadan, Rp25,000, ~3 hr), Siantar to Parapat (white minibus written D.Sanggul or bus, Rp25,000, ~3 hr), Parapat to Tuk Tuk (ferry from "Pelabuhan Tiga Raja" dock near market, Rp25,000. pay on the boat, will drop you at any hotel there or nearby. ~45-60 min)
  • Tourist bus: Rp200-230,000, ~3 hr
  • Shared taxi: ask your hotel
• from Bukittinggi: Rp 180,000, 15 hr or Rp 250,000 with tourist minibus, 15hr
• from Bukit Lawang: Rp 230,000/person with tourist minibus
• from Sibolga: Rp 75,000, 6 hr with minibus
• from Dumai: Rp 150,000, 11 hr with minibus

Parapat bus terminal is "Terminal Sosor Saba Parapat" with an ALS shop "Loket Bus ALS Parapat" (to Medan, Bukittinggi, Padang) and not much else. About 30 min walk from ferry dock or 10-15 min minibus (Rp5,000).

By taxi

From Medan:

• Raja Taxi +62 617 366 555;
• Medan Driver Tour & Travel; +6282114304668 via whatsapp available.
• Tobatransporter phone : +6285261492668

By train

There is no direct train to Lake Toba. The nearest train station is at Pematang Siantar 50 km north of Parapat. The train (Siantar Ekspres) departs from Medan every day on 14:00 and the trip takes about 4 hours because the train stops at almost every station. Ticket price is Rp 22,000 one way (as of December 2018). From Pematang Siantar, you have to continue by bus/taxi to Parapat, which is another 1-hour ride. It is a long but wonderful way to travel if you like to learn more culture on their daily living and lifestyle.

Get around

By car

Using a car is the easiest and safest way to get around, but you have to rent from either Medan or Pematangsiantar. Use a car with a high ground clearance and preferably one with lots of power. The majority of roads around Lake Toba are unpaved, save for the major road. Even the paved one may be in very bad condition, with lots of potholes.

By ferry

Note: In June 2018 within a week there were 2 accidents. First a ferry lost most of its passengers, about 200, who drowned due to high waves. The second was a boat with 9 passengers who drowned due to engine failure. Avoid using boats in bad weather and use boats with at least 2 engines. Don't use the ferry if it is overloaded, as they have an insufficient number of life vests. Small boats rarely have any life vests at all.

Local transportation around the lake takes the form of boats (cheaper, school boats with limited schedules and more expensive public boats that operate throughout the day).

The ferry dock of Parapat is the major access point for the Samosir island. From there, jump in a local mini-van towards the Parapat bus station. From there you can reach nearly all the big cities in Sumatra and even Java.

Several harbours on the mainland have ferry connections with Samosir island. Most common is the Parapat - Tomok route. Public boats from Parapat and surrounding areas sail from either 2 Ajibata harbour or 3 Tigaraja harbour to Tuktuk or Tomok at Samosir island. The boat runs every hour, with the last one at 18:00. Some ferry owners are tourist hunters and will overcharge you. Try to take the ferry with wooden benches inside and the light green ferry. Those are the ferries that charge Rp 25,000 (2024) and the locals take to cross over. Locals pay Rp 20,000 (2024). Self-proclaimed 'tourist hunters' may befriend you on the boat but are harmless and often helpful. If you are staying at Tuktuk, you can ask the ferryman to drop you directly at your resort. Watch out for the guys that ask for the fee before you embark — they do not work for the operators. You pay on the boat.

The larger ferry KMP Tao Toba I & KMP Tao Toba II operates between Ajibata and 4 Tomok daily, carrying passengers as well as vehicles. Another largerst ferry, KMP Ihan Batak also operates between Ajibata and Ambarita, with more capacity than Tao Toba. On non-peak season, usually only one of the ferry operates. The ferry ride over is fantastic, just truly peaceful, apart from the car radios playing, the ladies selling peanuts, bottled water, noodle or pretty much anything else. Normally some of the passengers and vendors will be able to speak English. Landing at the other end of the 1 hour ferry journey is daunting, but again, behave like everyone else in Indonesia and just push, ever so politely, but firmly and eventually you will get off the ferry and onto the main road. If you are not bringing vehicles along, better use the boat service as it's faster.

Other large ferries routes are (as of January 2018):

• 5 Sipinggan (1 hour drive from Tomok) connected to 6 Muara, the ferry (KMP Sumut II) runs once a day every Saturday & Sunday. Trip last about 50 minutes with capacity of 40 people and 8 vehicles.
• 7 Simanindo (30 min drive from Tuktuk) by KMP Sumut I connected to 8 Tigaras which runs 7x trips daily. Trip last about 45 minutes with capacity of 16 vehicles.
• 9 Onan Runggu connected to 10 Balige by KMP Sumut II, runs once a day every Monday & Friday. Trip last about 90 minutes.

Public boat routes (passengers only) are (as of January 2018):

• from/to Tuktuk:
• from/to Tomok
• Tomok - Ajibata, 14x daily, Rp 5,000 / 30 min (from 08:30 to 18:00 every hour)
• Tuktuk - Tigaraja, 8x daily, Rp 15,000 / 35 min (from 08:30 to 18:00 every hour)
• Onan Runggu - Balige, once daily
• Onan Runggu - Ajibata, 5x daily
• 11 Nainggolan - Balige, once daily
• Nainggolan - Ajibata, once daily except twice on Monday
• 12 Mogang - Balige, once daily
• Mogang - Ajibata, once daily
• Simanindo - 13 Haranggaol, once daily
• 14 Pangururan - Haranggaol, once daily
• 15 Lopo Parindo, Tomok - Tigaraja, 10x daily

If you have cash to burn, you can charter a speedboat and tour around Lake Toba. Rent are Rp 500,000++.

By public transport

It may be obvious but just remember there are no taxis around Lake Toba. Public buses exist, but there is no specific schedule. Ask the locals which bus to take as it may be confusing or you can flag a bus and ask the driver. State clearly your destination to avoid misunderstanding. Prices around Rp 3,000 - 5,000 per person depends on distance.

By bicycle

Exploring whole lake toba is very time consuming, so mostly is limited to surrounding area only. Most of the cottages and guest houses at Tuktuk will rent you a very serviceable bicycle for a nominal fee (for locals, it's about Rp 100,000), this is a very much preferred way to get around there. Outside of Tuktuk, hiring bicycle may be a bit hard, but do ask your hotel for help. Be very careful for the cars and trucks as nobody looks and there does not seem to be any right side of the road, even when its the left side.

By foot

Exploring by foot is limited to surrounding area only. Exercise caution for traffic and beware for pickpocket / robber especially at night time.

See

Well preserved traditional Batak house in Monument of KIng Silalahi.

• 360° view of Lake Toba from the peak of hills located in Samosir island.
• Notable landmarks such as Tele observation tower and Aek Tano Ponggol bridge.
• Tomb and monuments of Batak kings in the past.

Eastern side

• 1 Hill of Gibeon (Bukit Gibeon), Sibisa (continue the main road from Parapat to Balige and you will see a sign, just follow the sign). Puprle-roof complex of church popular for locals and the Christians to pray. The church only open on weekend. There's a small waterfall and swimming pool opened for public every day. (updated Jan 2023)
• 2 Ponot Falls (Air Terjun Ponot), Desa Tangga (about 15 minutes after passing the bridge of the Asahan River at the small village, there is a Y fork; take a left fork heading down). A 3-step waterfall, one of the highest in Indonesia, around 200 m. (updated Nov 2021)
• 3 Sigura-gura Falls & Dam (Air Terjun dan Waduk Sigura-Gura), Desa Pintu Pohan Dolok. Said to be the highest waterfall in Indonesia at 250 m, the Sigura-Gura Falls and the nearby dam are part of the Sigura-Gura hydro power plant complex that powers most of North Sumatra. It is operated by the state-owned PT Inalum. The dam is said to be the 2nd largest in Indonesia. Access is limited, but there's a lookout from the main street to view the falls, the dam and the power plant complex. (updated Nov 2021)
• 4 Simarjarunjung hill (Bukit Indah Simarjarunjung), Jl. Simarjarunjung (between main road of Parapat and Merek). Another spot to view the eastern side of Lake Toba. (updated Apr 2018)
• There is a path leading up the mountains to the north of Parapat about 100 m out of the buildings down the main road. This leads up to an attractive pine forest.

Do

Pusuk Buhit from Tele tower

Adventurous travelers may find many opportunity to explore the wilderness. Lake Toba offers plenty of rainforest with hills and mountains. However, unless you are an experienced trekker and know what you are doing, walking into the jungle without a guide is very dangerous and could be fatal.

Replace after the frenetic atmosphere of Indonesia. Swim in the volcanically warmed waters of the lake or arrange an overnight 'party' boat out on the lake if you can get enough volunteers together. A beautiful place to do nothing at all. Plenty of second hand book shops to stock up on reading material. Traditional Batak Dance in Restaurant Bagus Bay every Wednesday and Saturday from 20:15 onwards. After the dance, sit back and enjoy the folk songs done by a group of men.

Eat

Northern side

• 1 RM Muslim Suroboyo, Tongging (roadside of the winding road heading down to Tongging). 10:00-17:30. An alternative to Sitopsi if the latter is packed full. Offer more or less similar menu, price and services. (updated Dec 2018)
• 2 Sitopsi, Tongging (from Tongging market, turn to left and follow the small road). Offer fresh seafood with a very cheap price. You can choose either grilled or fried. Do try the lobster! Very packed with people around lunch time and serving time seems to take forever. (updated Jun 2018)

Eastern side

Many restaurants in this side are concentrated around Parapat. Outside of Parapat, it's quite hard to find decent places. In Parapat, most restaurants are located either on the main road or in hotels. The hotels offer some western dishes, whereas the local restaurants are either Batak (pork may be present) or Minang/Padang (which will be the only option for Muslim). Many hotels will include a basic Indonesian breakfast of coffee and either fried rice (nasi goreng) or fried noodles (mie goreng)

• 3 La Pinus Damasus. 10:00-21:00. Try Lake Toba crayfish dishes. (updated Jul 2024)
• 4 Warung Risna, Jl Josep Sinaga. Serves lontong sayur also mie gomak for breakfast. (updated Jul 2024)

Drink

Tuak, a traditional drink that is a part of Toba Batak culture. Back then, Tuak is a drink that served to only the king. In the Toba Batak tradition, kings who are discussing are served tuak beverage. Until now, this drink produced from the sugar palm tree, and it's still popular among the Batak people who live in the Lake Toba area. Marco Polo, after his adventure in 1290, noted that the Toba Batak people loves to drink tuak. Although, there are also local people who oppose tuak beverage since it's intoxicating.

Sleep

Northern side

• 1 Morent'z Pool & Cafe, Merek (from Merek head to Tongging direction and skip the fork to Tongging; continue ahead about 8 km until you see the sign on left side), ☏ +62 81 988 1718. Check-in: 14.00, check-out: 11.00. A hotel that imitates Santorini house style, they have 6-rooms in the swimming pool area, 2-glamping tents and several wooden cottages. The swimming pool is a salt water pool with they claimed has therapeutic effect when swimming. Can be very cold at night. Rp 550,000 per room. (updated Jan 2024)
• 2 Sapo Juma, Merek (from the gate to Sipiso-piso waterfall/Tongging village, turn right where signboard mention Bukit Gajah Bobok and Sapo Jumma; follow the road passing flower garden until reaching Sapo Jumma about 15 min), ☏ +62 812 6293 1331. A home-stay consists of 8 standard rooms, this can be a very cheap alternative to Simalem Resort if you want to enjoy the same view as this is located adjacent hill of Simalem Resort. The owner also has extensive flower garden just across the hotel. Staff are very friendly. There's a camping ground as well. Rp 450,000 per room. (updated Jun 2018)
• 3 Taman Simalem Resort, Jl. Raya Merek - Sidikalang Km. 9, ☏ +62-61-4577616 (marketing office), +62-811-6077-616, info@tamansimalem.com. Taman Simalem Resort is Indonesia's first agro-eco-tourism destination that has the magnificent Lake Toba as the backdrop at some 1400 m above sea level. Some unique features of the resort comprise Indonesia's largest loquat farm, an organic vegetables farm, a 9-hole golf course set in a tea and coffee estate and a twin waterfall in the 130-ha jungle that surrounds the resort. The resort is still under development but accommodation is available; ranging from the 4-bedded rooms with detached bathrooms to villas set in the jungle. For the more adventurous, camping packages are also available. A minimum 2-night stay is recommended to be able to enjoy most of the resort's facilities. Windbreakers and sweaters are recommended as the temperature averages below 20°C year round. Start from Rp 1,900,000. (updated Apr 2018)

Eastern side

• Charlie's Guesthouse, Parapat. cheap and central. Overlooks the market (therefore a bit noisy, especially on Saturday) and is very close to the ferry station. Rooms are about Rp 70,000, pretty clean and with shower (updated Feb 2015)
• 4 Danau Toba Cottage, Parapat. Offers spacious rooms, Wifi and cable TV and a swimming pool. rooms Rp 260,000-400,000. (updated Feb 2015)
• 5 My Nasha Hotel, Tigaras, ☏ +62 81809351766, +62 81534534383, mynashatigaras@gmail.com. A bit expensive by Lake Toba standard, but it offers a very splendid view to Lake Toba especially the Junior Family room type. Food from hotel are expensive, it's recommended to eat outside of hotel. Has swimming pool for adults and kids (separated). start from Rp 500.000. (updated Dec 2019)

• 6 Niagara Hotel and Resort, Parapat. One of the better hotels, although only 2 to 3 stars. Can be crowded with families and Indonesians at weekends and on public holidays.  

Southern side

• 7 Nabasa Hotel, Jl. Siliwangi No 8, Balige. A nice but basic hotel by lakeside, with a restaurant overlooking the lake directly. Rp 400,000. 
• 8 Coffee Hotel Ayola Dolok Sanggul (CHADS), Jl Dolok Sanggul - Siborong-borong, Pakkat, Dolok Sanggul, ☏ +62 633 321 1396, rsv@coffeehotelayoladoloksanggul.com. 3-stars hotel with 93-rooms, swimming pool and meeting rooms managed by Topotels located near the town of Dolok Sanggul (which famous for its horse meat delicacy). Start from Rp 500.000 on non peak season. (updated Apr 2024)

Western side

• 9 Saulina Resort, Jl. Aek Rangat, Kel. Siogung Ogung, Pangururan (if you are coming from Tele, turn left on the fork before the land-bridge to Samosir island, with the bridge right of your position), ☏ +62 626 20810. One of the hotels at Pusuk Buhit foothills just at the lakeside. Not much activity at night except taking a dip in nearby hot springs. Rp 420,000 for standard room, Rp 2,150,000 for villa (6 people). (updated Dec 2018)

Stay safe

The local Batak people are very respectful. Some of the local males may try to turn on the charm too much.

Clinics are sparse, even more so with hospital. If you got hurt badly, you may need to wait hours for ambulance depends on your location.

Go next

• Medan - the major city in northern Sumatra and transportation hub
• Pematang Siantar - the 2nd biggest city in northern Sumatra after Medan
• Berastagi - a beautiful town next to two famous volcanoes
• Bukit Lawang - home of orangutans in the Gunung Leuser National Park
• Bukittinggi - You can take the ALS bus (Medan to Padang) from the loket ALS in Parapat. It stops there on route. Don’t believe the touts in tuktuk quoting absurd prices. Just buy the ticket for the Medan - Padang leg via Traveloka (Rp 230,000), then tell the people at the ALS loket that you already have a bus ticket. They will call the bus for you and it will pick you up. (June 2022)